Rich Man, Poor Man

Mural, in Memoria of those killed during Guatemala's Civil War

At a glance, Guatemala is a rich country.  Rich with Mayan culture.  Rich with indigenous peoples.  Rich with language.  Rich with natural beauty.  Rich with natural resources.  Rich with agriculture.  Guatemalans possess diversity in language and its people, as exemplified by its 24 languages of its indigenous peoples (principally Kiche, Kaqchikel, Q'eqchi, and Mam) still spoken today and with its more than 50% indigenous population.  Backstrap weaving is a craft still passed down from generation to generation of women; and its beauty is displayed in it's regional styles of huipiles.  Coffee is its #1 export and ranks just behind Colombia as the 2nd producer of high grade coffee in the world.  Followed by sugar and bananas.  Guatemala is the largest producer of cardamom in the world.  Gold is abundant in the western highlands, followed by silver, steel, iron.

Los Pajaros -- Santiago Atitlan's signature huipil style

Solola Market

Chichicastenango style of huipil

So how is it that nearly 60% of the population lives in poverty, with at least 20% in extreme poverty?  That more than 50% of the population earn less than $2 a day, and 15% of the population earn less than $1 a day? 

The answer is gross inequalities and injustices at the expense of the marginalized indigenous population.  The wealthiest 20% of the population consume more than 50% of the GDP.  Two percent of landowners own nearly 70% of Guatemalan soil -- leaving Guatemala as a country with one of the most unequal wealth distributions in the Western hemisphere.

The Steps of Iglesia Santo Tomas

Traditional Chichicastenango dress, corte = skirt

The political history of Guatemala has been a long and tortured one.  Corruption and greed, the driving forces.  In the 1920's, repression and oppression of the indigenous people became more evident.  The indigent population was forced off their native lands as outside interests made their way into Guatemala.  In 1954, Arbenz the democratically elected president who had its marginalized people's interest in mind entered the scene; and for once Guatemala's future looked potentially hopeful.  His claim to fame: major land reforms that redistributed the land among the poor.  Later accused by the U.S. government (Nixon) of being Communist, Arbenz was forced from his presidency, opening the way for more repressive governments and a Civil War that lasted more than 30 years.  The result: the death of more than 200,000 Guatemalan citizens by the government a little change in the plight of the largely indigenous nation.

Picop - how Guatemalans roll

Traje tipica of the men of Solola

And while many crooked Guatemalan politicians played a significant role in these injustices, Americans have also tainted their hands with the blood and sweat of these people.  The U.S. is the world's largest coffee drinking country, to whom over half of Guatemala's coffee is exported.  (Please buy Fair Trade only!)  The U.S. has gold mining operations in the country, along with Canada, both of whom are under investigation for human rights abuses and violations.  With headlines implicating Glamis Gold: Glamis Gold Accused of Violating Indigenous Rights, Death Threats in Guatemala Against Community Leaders Opposing the Mining Operations of Glamis Gold, a Canadian/US Mining Company.

The hustle and bustle of Chichicastenango Market

Gringo tourist trap

And the U.S. government played a primary role in the overthrow of Jacobo Arbenz, possibly one of the first hopes of justice and equality for the Guatemalan people in its recent history.  Why?  Because he threatened the business security of the United Fruit Company, the US based company that claimed most of Guatemala's land in the 1950's for the production of bananas.  Reacting to the threat of land reform, and capitalizing on the fear of Communism during this time, the U.S.'s CIA led a coup to overthrow Arbenz in 1954.  (Very interesting video on this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNG6xzQu1Mw&feature=related).

Maria displays Santiago Atitlan huipil

For me, living among the Mam Mayans in Concepcion and knowing all this made it difficult for me to be proud to be an American.  Even during my time in Concepcion, a protest was organized against the mining in the Western Highlands, in the department of San Marcos, and Antonina asked why my country found the mining justified.  I shook my head in shame and disgust.  Again, greed and government corruption are the driving forces.

Solola market: Nicolas (farmer) and his wife (weaver)

What is likely clear in my photos is what drew me to Guatemala in the first place -- their richness.  That in the face of adversity, they have been able to preserve the Mayan identity that could so easily slip away from them.  While there is likely a bitter tone in my writing, this blogpost is really geared to inform you about what may not be known about this little neighboring country.

If you're still curious, here is a little more: 

• http://www.voiceofamountain.com/ (website of documentary)
• Silence on the Mountain (beautifully written book about Guatemala's civil war)
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNG6xzQu1Mw&feature=related  (political events during Jacobo Arbenz' presidency)